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Restaurant review: Michael Neave, Old Fishmarket Close

Michael Neave Kitchen and Whisky Bar. Picture: Contributed

Michael Neave Kitchen and Whisky Bar. Picture: Contributed

  • by SU HESKETH
 

MICHAEL Neave Kitchen and Whisky Bar was recently launched by one of Scotland’s most promising young chefs and my recent visit there was pure magic – I was not disappointed and look forward to following his culinary career, and his growing reputation.

This eponymous kitchen and whisky bar is situated in Old Fishmarket Close, just off the Royal Mile and is easily accessible from all parts of town.

The restaurant is set over two floors where diners can relax in the warmth of the modern bar upstairs whilst enjoying a pre-dining drink or a whisky after their meal.

The restaurant space is stylish, with calm green walls, white ceiling and blond wood keeping the space bright but intimate and is perfect for large groups or small intimate parties.

Neave sources from a valued and prized team of farmers, fishermen, growers and brewers, and ensures all dietary requirements are amply catered for.

I started with west coast scallops, celeriac puree and black pudding and caviar butter. The scallops were perfectly cooked.

Meanwhile my partner chose North Berwick crab and lobster ravioli in its own bisque. The homemade ravioli was delicious and the crab meat filling exquisite.

I could not resist the Perthshire Roe Deer as my main course.

This came with a carrot and lavender puree, fondant potato with rosemary and a Auchentoshan sauce.

My venison was pink and succulent and the Auchentoshan sauce a culinary masterpiece.

My partner loves his game and enjoyed roasted duck breast flavoured with lemon and thyme served with potato herb rostie with honey glazed carrots.

The duck was cooked to perfection as this can be over-cooked and dry.

Dessert was a no-brainer – we had to try the much raved about plum soufflé.

I think it was possibly the most delicious dessert I have ever tasted.

The service was genuinely warm and attentive without being inappropriately familiar – just the right balance for me.

• Michael Neave Kitchen and Whisky Bar, 21 Old Fishmarket Close, High Street Edinburgh, Tel 0131- 226 4747, www.michaelneave.co.uk

 

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