Wine, with Rose Murray Brown

Published on Sunday 17 January 2010 11:01

When I received an invitation to try Joseph Stalin's favourite wine, I was sceptical. I have sampled Georgian wine in the past and found it an acquired taste. But Chris Bowling, who has a new enterprise importing Georgian whites, reds and rosés into the UK, convinced me to give them another go.

Sandwiched between the Black Sea and the Caucasus mountains, Georgia has a suitable climate for vine growing and a wine history extending back to at least 4000BC. Today, it has 125,000 hectares of vineyards, mainly in the Kakheti area next to Azerbaijan and Russia.

An impressive grape-growing history is not enough to survive in today's competitive market. In recent years international investment has led to more modernised styles, but Russia's 2006 ban on Georgian wine imports left the wine industry in disarray. New markets had to be found – and the UK was an obvious choice.

The Georgians are keen not to get stuck in the East European bargain wine rut, so their wines are not cheap. Bowling's new outfit, The Georgian Wine Society, sells wine at 7.99 upwards – with 10 per cent of profits going to childcare programmes in Georgia. He has decided to focus on four wineries who offer the best: Teliani, Tbilvino, Telavi and Orovela's Chandrebi Estate.

What is exciting about Georgia is its 500 indigenous grapes – 40 are in commercial production, and 90 per cent of Georgian wines are made from these. UK wine lovers will not only need to learn a new language, but have a new taste profile to discover.

The most impressive Georgian white to date is from Teliani Valley winery in Kakheti, which produces a very impressive dry white, Tsolikouri. The most impressive red grape is saperavi – at its best from Chandrebi Estate, between the Caucasus and Tsiv-Gombori mountains.

NEW Wine & Charcuterie Masterclass in Edinburgh with Rose Murray Brown MW: Thursday, 21 January, 2010 (35). See www.rosemurraybrown.com or e-mail [e-mail]

Learn a new language

9.79

www.georgianwinesociety.co.uk

Tsolikouri Teliani Valley winery

Georgia's best dry white: like a cross between an Alsace muscat and a Rhone viognier. Floral, appley, grapey aromas, rich mid-palate. Drink now.

12.99

www.georgianwinesociety.co.uk

Khvanchkara 2005 Telavi

Stalin's favourite. An unusual, sweet red blend – smoky, spicy, pepper, chilli, bizarre caramel notes. An acquired taste for UK wine drinkers.

14.99

www.georgianwinesociety.co.uk

Orovela Saperavi 2004 Chandrebi

My top Georgian red, from the Chandrebi estate: velvety, cherry, mulberry, damson notes. Between an Italian Amarone and a Greek red.

&#149 This article first appeared in The Scotsman, 16 January, 2010