Wine: Spain is finally getting its act together to produce fine whites

Published on Saturday 14 November 2009 13:45

At last, Spanish whites are coming of age. We now have superb quality great value whites from a raft of unusual grapes, such as aromatic albarino from Rias Baixas and creamy godello from Valdeorras. However, the region which impresses me most with zesty whites from its native verdejo grape is Rueda.

Rueda is not well-known, but it should be. Spread over Spain's "flat highlands", between Valladolid and Segovia north of Madrid, Rueda's vineyards are 2,300ft above sea level. Here winters are long and cold and spring frosts can be as severe as the baking hot summers. It's a bizarre place to find snappy crisp whites.

It seems even more unlikely when you find Rueda's neighbouring wine regions are Ribera del Duero and Toro, which make powerful heady reds.

Rueda's white fame is recent. Its viticultural history stretches back to 11th century Alfonso XI, but for years Rueda made oxidised-sherry styles. In 1971, Marques de Riscal of Rioja fame arrived, making fresh vibrant whites from native verdejo and he introduced sauvignon blanc. In 1980 Rueda won its own "DO" appellation.

Since then Rueda's whites have been turning heads. Fifty wineries across 72 villages make unusually aromatic whites from gravel and limestone soils. Native aromatic verdejo is often mixed with local viura and sauvignon blanc to freshen. Wineries also make red and ros, labelled as Castilla y Leon, not Rueda.

Expect herby notes, green fruits, crisp, zesty, pure fruit whites. Almost all Rueda whites are cool-fermented in stainless steel to retain primary fruits. If you like New Zealand sauvignon blanc, Loire sancerre or Italian soave you will love these.

Top Rueda white cuves, such as Bodegas Naia's Naiades (10.99, Indigo Wines, Harrods, Noel Young Wines) made from 100 year old vines by star winemaker Eulogio Calleja, are oak fermented. They compare well against creamy rich whites from Burgundy.

This article was first published in The Scotsman Magazine on 14/11/09