Sparkling company

Published on Saturday 8 December 2007 01:14

Under £10

The majority of the 20 sparkling wines in this price category this year were really disappointing. Many were either unclean, uninteresting, or bitter. France proved the dominant force, with the New World lagging behind.

CELEBRATION CREMANT DE LOIRE 2006 Gratien & Meyer

(8.50, The Wine Society, 01438 737700)

The hands-down winner in this price category. Lightly toasty, very crisp, creamy and complex. 17/20

SELIM NV de Concilis

(8.99, Raeburn Wines, Edinburgh, 0131-343 1159)

Very aromatic peach and guava bouquet - a unique Italian sparkler. 16/20

MONTANA SPARKLING CHARDONNAY/PINOT NOIR NV

(8.98, Asda; 8.99, Sainsbury's, Majestic Wine; 4.98 each for six bottles, Tesco online)

Best of the New World fizz at this price; very zesty, limey peachy fruit. 15.5/20

SAINSBURY'S VINTAGE CAVA 2005

(9.49, Sainsbury's)

Clean, vibrant party quaffer. 15/20

CREMANT D'ALSACE NV Joseph Pfister

(7.99, Bordeaux Undiscovered, 01452 840116)

Lime blossom aromas, very creamy deep fruits, good finish for the price. 15/20

BUGEY CERDON ROS NV Renardat-Fche

(9.99, Raeburn Fine Wines)

Unusual medium dry strawberry fruit bomb; will suit ros lovers and party-goers with a sweet tooth. 15.5/20

Under 20

Between 10 and 20 you move into the cheap Champagne category. Head for Blanc de Noirs Champagne made only from red grapes (Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier) usually a better buy than cheap Blanc de Blancs.

CHAMPAGNE SERGE MATHIEU BLANC DE NOIRS BRUT NV

(14.95, From Vineyards Direct, www.fromvineyardsdirect.com)

One of the few good Champagnes in this price category; lightly toasty, creamy depth, ripe fruits. 15.5/20

THE SOCIETY'S CHAMPAGNE BRUT NV

(15.75 a bottle in "12 for 9" deal, ending today; normally 20 a bottle, The Wine Society)

A cracking deal at this knockdown price: Alfred Gratien did the first fermentation in second-hand Chablis barrels, giving it a very honeyed, leesy, creamy complexity. 16/20

Under 30

There are some great deals on the superb 1996 vintage Champagne.

CHAMPAGNE HENRIOT VINTAGE 1996

(29, The Wine Society)

Soft, refined, toasty and very, very good for the price: the best 1996 vintage bargain on the shelves. 17.5/20

CHAMPAGNE LANSON VINTAGE 1996

(29.99, reduced from 34.99, JA Glass, Dysart, Kirkcaldy, 01592 651850)

Lanson produced a gorgeous citric lime blossom, creamy, thrillingly minerally fizz. Snap it up before it goes. 17/20

Under 40

This "organic" Champagne will impress your guests.

CHAMPAGNE FLEURY VINTAGE 1996

(38, Vintage Roots, 0800 980 4992)

Bio-dynamic Pinot Noir-dominant Champagne. Nutty, brioche nose, deep juicy citric fruit, complex and fab. 17/20

THE BEST DEALS THIS WEEKEND

White

Seventh Continent Viognier 2005

(9.99, buy two get third free, Threshers)

This rich, unoaked, zingy fruit hails from cool Piccadilly Valley, 2,000ft above Adelaide.

White

Iona Sauvignon Blanc 2006

(12.99 each, or two for 20, Luvians, 01334 854620)

Steely grassy Cape Savvy made by Scot Andrew Gunn in Elgin's old apple orchards.

Red

Saumur les Nivires 2005 Cave de Saumur

(4.99, Waitrose)

Great value juicy fresh Cabernet Franc from a progressive co-operative.