Wine: There's more to St Tropez than beaches and yachts

Published on Wednesday 24 June 2009 14:58

I'm sitting on a terrace on the rocks near St Tropez with waves lapping at my feet, sampling the local Provençal wine. I'm in the heart of France's ritziest holiday zone.

Film festivals, sunny beaches and glamorous yachts spring to mind when we imagine the Riviera, but not wine. Yet vineyards reach down to the beaches of St Tropez. Provence's wine region stretches for 200 kilometres from Nice to Aix-en-Provence, with 27,300 hectares of vines across its main appellations of Ctes du Provence, Coteaux Varois and Coteaux Aix-en-Provence – with a changing landscape of coastal schisty soils up to the dramatic limestone cliffs of Mount Sainte Victoire inland.

"We get frequent offers to buy our chateau and vineyards," says Marie Pascaud of Chateau Pampelonne, which is one mile from St Tropez.

One hour's drive inland into the wilder higher countryside of Provence's Coteaux Varois, I visit the newly renovated Chateau Routas, with its 34 hectares of vineyards surrounded by woodland and garrigue owned by Scottish businessman, Sir David Murray. Nearer to the coast towards Toulon, I lunch at Chateau Rimauresq, owned by the Scottish Wemyss family, just 35km from the sea. Everywhere there are signs of recent investment.

The quality of Provence wines is still mixed. With such a huge local tourist market, there has been little incentive to improve, with only 12 per cent exported abroad. Now there are signs of change. "Night-time harvesting, cooler fermentation and improved techniques are key," says Gery Viziale of CIVP (Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins de Provence). "Provence is at the forefront of ros wine-making, with the world's first Ros Research Centre based in Vidauban," he says.

There are two distinct styles of Provence ros; delicate, lighter perfumed styles from the coast and richer, stronger, more powerful ross from inland. Both are charming, but wine prices, like land prices here, can be steep.

In Provence's warm climate, it might seem tricky to make elegant whites, but the rolle or vermentino grape here really impressed me. If you are a fan of Rhne whites, try Provence's wines which have a fascinating herby, spicy character – delicious matched with rustic Provenal or lightly spiced Lebanese foods.

I was disappointed with Provence's reds; which I found dry, coarse and rustic. Apart from the famous Bandol made from the awkward mourvedre grape, many reds lack roundness, smoothness and ripe fruits that the same grapes achieve in the southern Rhne to the west. They could be better.

Taste Test

Proven Provenal gems

Ros

CHATEAU PAMPELONNE ROS

(10.39, www.advintage-wines.co.uk; www.tauruswines.co.uk)

Vibrant richly fruity, kumquat aromas, spicy undertones from syrah in blend. 15/20

CHATEAU LEOUBE ROS 2008

(10.99, Corney & Barrow Scotland, 01875 321921)

Elegant light, salty notes – from a vineyard next door to Sarkozy's holiday house. 16/20

RIMAURESQ ROS 2008

(10.80, L'Art du Vin, Edinburgh, 0131-555 6009)

Light raspberry fruits, fresh delicate, juicy fruits, delicious for summer quaffing. 15/20

LES VALENTINS ROS 2008

(11.50, Nicolas)

Attractive, rounded, subtle light four-grape blend – too pricey. 14/20

White

ROUTAS BLANC WILD BOAR

(8.99, Henderson Fine Wines, Edinburgh, 0131-447 8580)

Light, easy, fragrant, crisp blend of viognier, chardonnay and ugni blanc. 14/20

'MADE IN PROVENCE' WHITE 2008

(11.50, Lea & Sandeman, 0207 244 0522)

Intriguingly smoky, fresh lemon notes from the unusual Rolle grape: a delicious match with grilled fish. 15/20

Red

RIMAURESQ 'R' 2005

(18.50, L'Art du Vin)

Robust, intensely fruity Cabernet/Syrah blend; herby, garrigue notes, potential to last – they make delicious ros here, too. 15.5/20

BEST DEALS ON PROVENCE ROSS

JULES ROS 2008

(5 each in "Buy 3 for 15" deal or 6.99 a bottle, Oddbins)

Pale raspberry toned, upfront fruit, lightly spicy blend from grenache, cinsault and tibouren grapes.

CHATEAU SainTE MARGUERITE ROS 2008

(9.99, Majestic)

An interesting wine with light liquorice notes. Rich, intensely fruity, fresh and vibrant finish.

LA CHAPELLE PIGOUDET ROS 2008

(7.99, Majestic)

Rich cherried, crisp dry fresh ros, made by a German owner near Aix-en-Provence.