Wine: Rich pickings

Published on Friday 14 November 2008 11:35

If you have liquid assets and want to put your money where your mouth is, you could do worse than invest in this dirty-rich dozen

FINE-wine lovers have never had it so good. The past decade has seen a market explosion of exceptional vintages, single-vineyard releases and iconic brands. But while improved technology has driven the quality to new highs, so too have prices risen – often to eye-watering levels.

Price aside (bearing in mind that luxury does not come cheap), there has never been a better time to explore the top end of the market. This has been great news for my tastebuds, as I have, on your behalf, sipped my way around some of the world's most sought-after wines. So, here is my top 12 for a luxury hamper. Remember, any list is subjective and mine has been coloured by the long, dark months ahead, as many of the wines possess a rich, ripe, autumnal feel.

1995 Krug Clos d'Ambonnay, Reims, Champagne, France, 1,200

In the spring, Krug did something out of the ordinary: it released a single-vineyard vintage, its most expensive ever. It dances around the palate with a rich, powerful creaminess encased in a lively, steely mineral fruit. Very precise, with huge concentration and power, it will be a favourite with collectors for many years.

1996 Pol Roger, Sir Winston Churchill Cuve, Epernay, Champagne, France, 130

Pol Roger has some of the deepest cellars in Epernay, which slows down the secondary fermentation, giving the champagne smaller bubbles. This, coupled with the robust style, means that Pol Roger wines have a propensity to outlive many of their counterparts. The 1996 is overt and generous, with hints of tobacco, fresh butter and nuts. Youthful, exuberant and powerful, with a very, very long finish.

1999 Perrier Jout Belle Epoque, Epernay, Champagne, France, 104

The flamboyantly decorated bottle relives the glory of 1890s France yet the champagne is surprisingly delicate. With a gentle freshness and notes of honey and toffee, this is soft, fragrant champagne; wonderful as an aperitif.

2005 Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg, Cuve Ste Catherine, Domaine Weinbach, Alsace, France, 30

Domaine Weinbach is one of the highlights of Alsace with a reputation for wines with an oily, pungent, perfumed character. This is the richest of the dry rieslings from Weinbach. Produced from vines on the mid-slope, the wine has incredible energy with an understated nose of lychee and a long, powerful length.

1996 Jean-Marc Boillot, Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles, Burgundy, France, 35

White burgundy is quite simply the finest interpretation of chardonnay found anywhere. Jean-Marc Boillot is one of its greatest proponents. His wines possess enormous power and purity, and reflect the earth from where they are made. This is no exception: rich and ripe, it has a wondrous, buttery length. Arguably one of the finest white wines in the world.

2006 Paul Hobbs Pinot Noir, Lindsay Estate, Russian River Valley, California, 65

Paul Hobbs has one of California's most impressive wine-making CVs. Having worked with Mondavi and the Rothschilds on Opus One, he set up on his own. His wines are noted for their tannin and grip. At a recent tasting, the pinot noir really impressed with notes of dark cherries, red berries and sandalwood. Light on the palate, it proved the potential of California pinot.

2005 Paul Jaboulet, Hermitage La Petite Chapelle, Rhne Valley, France, 115

The flagship of the Jaboulet estate, this is deep ruby red with dark cherry highlights. Incredibly intense and concentrated, it is heavily perfumed with blackberry and oak, with a rich, spicy finish. It is superb and will cellar for many years.

2001 Grange Shiraz, Penfolds, Barossa Valley, Australia, 113

Quite simply, Grange is the most famous and arguably finest wine to come out of Australia. The 2001 has an unbelievable power and concentration. Dark and brooding in the glass, its nose is dominated by notes of chocolate and spice. The palate is layered with rich, dark, plummy fruit and well-balanced tannins.

2005 Margaux, Bordeaux, France, 18.75

This is what I will be drinking at Christmas. Made from declassified wines from Chteau Palmer's near-perfect 2005 vintage (which is selling at 3,000 a case), this is sensational value. Quite heavy, it none the less has the finesse and elegance one looks for in Margaux. Superb claret.

2003 Chteau Cheval Blanc, St Emilion, Bordeaux, France, 155

Cheval Blanc is fast earning itself a reputation as one of France's best-performing wine estates. This year, I have been fortunate enough to visit the property and taste several of its vintages. I like the 2003 because it is forward and starting to drink already. A blend of merlot and cabernet franc, it has notes of cherries and wood smoke, with a slight herbal character. It was a hot year and the fruit does reflect that, sometimes appearing baked. But the quality is unmistakable.

2005 Marchesi de' Frescobaldi Castello di Nipozzano Mormoreto, Tuscany, Italy, 43.95

A Bordeaux blend of 80% cabernet sauvignon and 20% cabernet franc, this has a soothing, soft appeal. Creamy, with notes of red berries, coffee and dark chocolate, there is also a vibrant acidity and a moreish texture.

1997 Chteau d'Yquem, Sauternes, Bordeaux, France, 157

Without descending into hyperbole, this is one of the most outstanding wines I have had the good fortune to taste. In the glass, it sits with a rich, golden hue. The nose is sensational and has a honeyed, almost treacle-pudding character from its rich, smoky botrytis. Then pow! A wave of pinpointed freshness envelopes the palate before a creamy, vanillin, sweet fruit flavour. The structure of this wine is incredible.

Stockists Alliance Wine (01505 506060); Bibendum, London (020 7449 4100); Bordeaux Index (www.bordeauxindex.com); Centotre, Edinburgh (0131 225 1550); Cockburns of Leith, Edinburgh (0131 661 8400); Farr Vintners, London (020 7821 2000); From Vineyards Direct (www.fromvineyardsdirect.com); Justerini & Brooks, Edinburgh (0131 226 4202); WoodWinters Wines & Whiskies, Bridge of Allan (01786 834894; www.woodwinters.com)