Wine: Country quaffing

Published on Wednesday 10 June 2009 17:40

There are a lot of wine competitions – perhaps too many. The ever-increasing tally of medals on labels can seem meaningless. But one competition is extremely useful for producers and consumers: the Top 100 Vin de Pays.

This year's vin de pays taste-off sorted through 1,224 samples from France. A panel of UK palates selected 100 outstanding bottles, but dished out only 16 trophies; all worthy winners. The great news for consumers is that many are in UK retailers at an affordable price – almost all under 8, with some below 5.

Vin de pays means country wines. In France it is considered a lesser category below the greatness of the appellation controle (AC). There is a lot of dross, as it is a huge category, covering vast sectors of France, but there are some excellent wines too – often from communes which are appellations in waiting.

With a wider range of grapes allowed than in AC, the denomination encourages growers to experiment. For the consumer, vin de pays are also easier to spot as they are labelled, like new world wines, by grape.

"The idea is to promote diversity and quality," says judges chairman Tim Atkin MW. He has seen great improvements in the six years of the competition. "It's the most dynamic sector in France today," he says. The most impressive area is the largest, Languedoc Roussillon (known as vin de pays d'Oc], but Gascony and Loire are getting better and better every vintage," says Atkin.

"Without the AC restrictions, a good winemaker can do a fantastic job, as seen by stars like Jean Luc Baldes at Clos Triguedina, who makes sweet chenin blanc, or Gerard Bertrand's dry muscat," says Dominique Vrigneau of importers Thierry's. The white variety that stood out was sauvignon blanc. Chardonnays and viogniers were subtle and distinctive, without the over-oaking of previous years. Vermentino, gros manseng and grenache blanc also showed well.

Of the 100 vin de pays selected, 56 were red. Merlots were vastly improved and syrah was a star variety. The success of the traditional grenache and carignan grapes was encouraging.

Interestingly, given the growth of the ros market in the UK, there were only four ross in the final 100. "We would like more pinks to get through, we were strict with our selection," says Atkin. The competition is also helpful for the UK's biggest wine buyers.

"It's a great opportunity to focus on wines not often put on a pedestal," says Jo Ahearne, MW of Marks & Spencer. Richard Verney at Oddbins found it useful too. "Vin de pays will now be given more room on our shelves as it's where France is offering great value," he says.

Taste test: Winners all

White

GERARD BERTRAND WINEMAKER SELECTION MUSCAT SEC 2008

(5.99, Tesco)

Muscat with honeyed aromas, zippy elderflower fruits and crisp palate from Languedoc. 17/20

LAURENT MIQUEL NORD SUD VIOGNIER 2007

(7.99, Majestic Wine; Tesco)

A vibrant take on the viognier grape; sweet/sour, apricot, spicy undertones. 16.5/20

PAUL MAS LA FORGE CHARDONNAY 2008

(7.99, Henderson Wines, 0131-447 8380; Cockburns, 0131-661 8400; Aitkens of Dundee, 01382 641111)

Tropical fruit, ripe melon, toasty but integrated oak, from Languedoc. 15.5/20

PLAIMONT RIVE HAUTE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2008

(8.99, Adnams, 01502 727222)

Gooseberry and tropical fruits, fresh acidity, finishing dry. From Gascony. 16.5/20

Red

LA DIFFERENCE CARIGNAN 2007

(4.99, Tesco; Asda; Co-op)

The best carignan under 5 – from 100-year-old vines in Ctes Catalanes, grown near Maury in Roussillon. Prune and blueberry aromas, chocolate and herb undertones, soft lush and very approachable. 16.5/20

BARTON & GUESTIER RESERVE CABERNET 2007

(6.99, Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com)

Forward fruit new world-style cabernet sauvignon from Languedoc; toned blackberry notes, lush, soft tannins, good definition. 16/20

PLAIMONT RIVE HAUTE TANNAT/CABERNET 2008

(5, Coe Vintners, 0208 551 4966)

Ros with crushed redcurrant and strawberry fruits, cherry undertones, full, vibrant acid; from Gascony. 16.5/20THE BEST summery white DEALS THIS WEEKENDLES MONTGOLFIERS SAUVIGNON BLANC/ GROS MANSENG 2008

(2 for 10 until end of June, or 6.99 each, Tesco)

White blend winner: gooseberry, zippy vin de pays blend from Cotes de Gascogne.

PAUL MAS ESTATE MARSANNE 2008

(7.99, Majestic Wine)

One of the top 100: honeysuckle and glue notes, full creamy succulent Languedoc Marsanne vin de pays d'Oc.

TERRA VECCHIA VERMENTINO/ CHARDONNAY 2008

(4.79, reduced from 5.75, until 30 June, Somerfield)

One of the top 100: lemony, weighty, herby Corsican vin de pays de I'lle de Beaute.