The end of the affair

Published on Thursday 7 February 2008 15:58

WOULD the last person to buy a bottle at Oddbins please turn out the light? Judging from my postbag, it seems most of you have noticed the chain's diminishing presence on our high streets. Three times in the past week I have been asked by friends why their local Oddbins has given way to the rather peculiar French wine specialist, Nicolas.

How the mighty are fallen. Ten years ago, Oddbins was untouchable. Its combination of young, enthusiastic and knowledgeable staff, confident buying team and exciting, daring list made it one of the most dynamic wine retailers in the world. I remember the first Oddbins tasting I went to, when I was proudly informed by one of the Scottish managers that the chain had stopped entering the annual independent wine merchant of the year competition because it kept winning it. Not any more. The latest accounts show that Oddbins reported a pre-tax loss of 8.6 million in the year to December 31, 2006 – and this at a time when the UK wine market is growing like never before.

To add insult to injury, a few weeks ago the firm's highly respected sales director, Andy Gadsby, threw in the towel, citing differences with the management over the strategic vision of the firm.

Gadsby was battling with Castel Frres, one of France's biggest wine companies, which had acquired Oddbins for 57 million in 2001. Back then, Oddbins was struggling to turn a profit and many observers thought the French firm had overpaid. Its rescue package did little to help. Buyers soon found themselves forced to list many of Castel's French-owned brands while the business was increasingly centralised in Paris.

To compound the situation, it was decided that unprofitable stores would be rebranded as Nicolas, Castel's other wine chain, which up until then had been selling its exclusively French list to London's fashionable set in areas such as Knightsbridge. To put it into context, in 2002 there were fewer than 20 Nicolas outlets in the UK. Since then, more than 60 Oddbins stores have been converted, including such famous branches as Bath, Winchester, Edinburgh's George Street and Glasgow's Sauchiehall Street.

It's not that the Nicolas list is bad (it isn't – it is very strong on Bordeaux, Burgundy and the Rh'ne). It's just that Oddbins built its reputation and success on selling New World wines, while this new incarnation seems to be doing the reverse.

Oddbins' loyal customer base, meanwhile, has largely grown up and graduated to the likes of Majestic and the Wine Society. Bereft of ideas, its owner has resorted to mimicking Majestic in a number of its stores, selling by the case. Perhaps it was this news that hit me hardest. When I was living in London, I used to love popping in to the Parsons Green branch of Oddbins for an odd bottle on my way home from work. Now more than ever those days seem light years away.

But, with St Valentine's Day fast approaching, it is worth remembering that all great love affairs must eventually come to an end.

Three champagnes for St Valentine's night

Pol Roger NV, 27

This is one of the most elegant and consistent of champagnes. Bone dry, its fruit is nevertheless forward, giving it an exuberant drinkability and a seductive, honeyed finish.

Billecart-Salmon Brut Ros NV, 39

For sheer hedonistic indulgence, there is nothing to beat a glass of ros champagne, and Billecart-Salmon's has been one of my favourites for many years. An attractive shade of pink, it manages to marry powerful strawberry notes with a satisfying, savoury finish.

2003 by Bollinger, 45

An extraordinary vintage at Bollinger has thrown up a wine that is quite unexpected. It doesn't share any of the characteristics of Bollinger Grande Anne, but then it doesn't pretend to. Eminently drinkable, it has a light, creamy style. Fun.

Stockists: Nicolas, George Street, Edinburgh (0131 220 3488), Morningside Road, Edinburgh (0131 447 3473), Newington Road, Edinburgh (0131 667 2760), Sauchiehall Street, Glasgow (0141 353 2110); and at selected Oddbins and Waitrose