Single malt Signet rings the changes at Glenmorangie

Published on Thursday 18 September 2008 13:47

I was recently sent an unmarked black box containing a confidential preview sample of a brand-new single malt whisky and two glasses. I wasnít sure who the second glass was for. The box also contained a personal note from one of Scotlandís top whisky creators, declaring that this unlabelled bottle contained ìa sublime taste experience, his ìmost complex creation to date.

The letter, from Glenmorangies Dr Bill Lumsden, invited me to unveil the mystery. We have experimented with some novel whisky creation techniques, he said. Could I detect what they were?

Glenmorangie, in my opinion, has always been a Highland single malt that sits on the fence a taste sensation that rarely offends due to its mild temperament; never too smoky, never too austere. It succeeds due to its fruity appeal and impressive marketing, rather than from anything really unusual in its taste, unlike its wilder stablemate, the Islay-based Ardbeg.

So I got a shock when I opened the bottle: aromas of burnt toffee, furniture polish and an explosion of honey; then more toffee, apples and a hint of tar. Behind this came waves of ginger, korma, even a touch of paraffin a very exciting nose promising great things for the palate, which was soft, slightly spicy, dense, with a velvety feel and pronounced smoky finish deeper, darker, smokier and more robust than any Glenmorangie on the market.

It was one of the few malts I enjoyed tasting neat. Water changes the structure of a whisky and Signet lost its textural richness, with overtones of hay predominating.

I then received a phone call from Dr Lumsden to ask what I thought. Stabbing a little in the dark (as Im really a wine taster), I told him my impression was that they had used roasted, almost burnt, malt.

I was partly right. One of the unique elements of Signet is chocolate malt. You might have encountered this if you are a fan of Rogues Chocolate Stout, Youngs Double Chocolate Stout, even Ovaltine or Horlicks.

The barley is steeped and germinated in the normal manner, but during kilning the temperature for making chocolate malt is ramped up dramatically to a very high temperature up to 250 degrees for a short time to give a roasted character and flavours of mocha and praline. Its like roasting coffee beans, says Lumsden. The idea for using this in whisky goes back to my PhD days at Heriot Watt University when I developed a keen interest in kilning. Heat treatment develops different flavours, from biscuity to bittersweet and it darkens colour.

Lumsdens assistant creator, Rachel Barrie, adds: We have been watching the coffee culture over two decades as people have been drinking stronger, darker brews and felt we could translate that into whisky.

The other unusual element in Signet is the oak. For their barrels, they used bespoke virgin Missouri oak from the Ozark mountains, charred for three minutes (not just toasted as for Glenmorangie Astar). This accentuates the burnt character presumably giving notes of toffee and tar?

The whisky itself is a blend of seven different threads, including single malts from the 1970s, 1980s and 1990s. The steep price of 120 is apparently due to the maturity of some of the whiskies and the fact that the raw materials of chocolate malt cost considerably more, as high roasting sacrifices alcohol which, incidentally, is 46 per cent.

I thought I had better make use of the other glass I had been given, so I offered a dram to several tasters, amateur and professional. There was a marked difference of opinion. Those who drank malts or dark stouts loved it, but newcomers to whisky found it too rich.

When I asked world whisky authority Charlie MacLean for his opinion, his tasting notes differed markedly from mine. While I got toffee, he found fruit and fondants. Here is an abbreviation of his jottings:

Nose: soft, ripe plums, mandarins, Cherryade, fondant Dolly Mixtures ... slightly jammy, light herbal note with a lightly fruity palate and a trace of dried grass, walnuts and sweet dog roses, tobacco ... more fondant and jam notes ... drier, not so luscious ... Taste: soft and sweet, fresh, lively, pleasant, white pepper notes ... apple dumpling aftertaste.

So would MacLean recommend forking out more than 100 for a bottle? Well, it is fantastic, but its a huge price to pay for something in their core range, as pricey as some First Growth clarets; but remember, a bottle of Scotch goes a bit further than a bottle of wine.

n Glenmorangie Signet is available from Royal Mile Whiskies; The Whisky Shop; The Whisky Exchange; Luvians.

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