He has helped create some of Scotland's best-loved whiskies, now a master blender reveals the secrets of nosing a fine dram

Published on Friday 10 July 2009 12:37

IT IS almost inconceivable that when John Ramsay, the man behind some of the world's best known single malt whiskies, first entered the trade the category was still relatively uncommon.

Walk into any bar or off licence today and one is immediately hit with row upon row of single malt brands all purporting to represent the region where they are made. Famous names such as Bowmore, Glenfiddich and the Macallan dominate the whisky sector, achieving eye watering prices and racking up thousands of case sales worldwide. But in 1966, when Ramsay first started work in the laboratory at Strathclyde Distillery it was the blends that stole the show.

"Back then single malts were relatively rare," he says from his office in the Edrington Group's Glasgow headquarters. "It was dominated by Glen Grant and Glenfiddich. What most people drank was blends and really they were seen as equal to malts." How times have changed. Just over three years ago a bottle of Dalmore 62 single Highland malt Scotch whisky sold for 32,000 while blends are often regarded as the poor man's malt.

This year Ramsay will nose his last dram, marking the end of a 43 year career in the whisky industry which has seen him work on brands such as Highland Park and the Glenrothes. As master distiller for the Edrington Group, Ramsay is well placed to observe any changes in the industry. He has, after all, helped create one of the best-selling blends, The Famous Grouse, and one of the best selling malts, The Macallan.

"What we have really seen in the last few years is the rise of premiumisation," he says. "There are now more whiskies on the market than ever before. In that sense one can say for the Scotch whisky drinker it is a golden age."

In 1971 Ramsay left Strathclyde and moved to William Lawson Distillers, where he took up the role as chief chemist. A decade later he was promoted to the role of blender, before joining Highland Distillers as production controller in 1990, finally moving to Edrington a year later. He has since become one of the industry's most distinguished figures, flying around the world hosting nosing and tasting masterclasses. Given his expertise I felt it churlish not to ask so, in a few short sentences, I have managed to distill John Ramsay's guide to nosing whisky.

"When evaluating a whisky, particularly if it is a cask sample it is important to add water," he says. "Usually two parts, to reduce the alcohol. If the alcohol is too strong it can effect the smell. The next step is to evaluate the nose. Does it have a smoky or medicinal smell? Are there floral or fruity notes, if so can you name the flower or fruit. Now take a sip and try and roll the whisky around your mouth while drawing air over the liquid. Think about it's texture. Is it thick, thin, spirity or dry? The tongue will pick up four flavours, salty and sour at the sides and sweet and bitter at the back. Is the flavour intense or short?"

We can only guess at how many drams Ramsay has nosed, but it will be getting into the thousands. Will he miss it? "The crack definitely," he says. "The banter and the chat."

Macallan 12 year old, Speyside, 40 per cent, 31.95

The absolute flagship Scotch malt whisky that is now the benchmark for those decadent, brooding, big sherry-cask matured Speyside malts. Rich and smooth with just a hint of sweetness, it is gloriously magnificent.

Highland Park 12 year old, Orkney, 40 per cent, 28.50

Personally I prefer this expression to the older vintages. It has an inviting, succulent heathery smokiness with a honeyed maltiness and a very balanced palate. A wonderful malt to enjoy outdoors.

The Spirit Drink That Dare Not Speak Its Name, Glenglassaugh, Speyside, 50 per cent, 27.99

This is an unaged malt spirit made from a single mash. The liquid is as clear as water. The nose has a soft, creamy butterscotch flavour with a sweetish grassy feel. The predominant character is fruit with a slight citrusy kick. An unusual product but worth more than just its novelty value.

STOCKISTS

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www.royalmilewhiskies.com); The Whisky Shop (01463 710525, www.whiskyshop.com); Gordon & MacPhail (01343 545111, www.gordonandmacphail.com); Waitrose; Tesco; Sainsbury's