Are Costco's pack'n'save bargains worth the joining fee?

Published on Friday 31 October 2008 10:50

I have been singing the praises of Costco for some time, so when I heard this warehouse chain was keeping prices down to entice customers I thought it prudent to see whether they still offer us savings on fine wines.

Costco, the USA's largest fine wine retailer, with 537 stores worldwide, has incredible buying power – something Scottish customers benefit from at stores in Edinburgh, Aberdeen and Glasgow.

You can't get into a Costco store for nothing; you need to join. If you run a business this will cost you a trade membership of 20 plus VAT. Certain occupations will entitle you to an individual membership, which is 25 plus VAT (and a spouse card).

So is the initial outlay really worth it? I reckon that if you also buy meat, electricals, printer cartridges, orange juice or even disposable contact lenses, as well as your wine, it is cost effective.

When it comes to wine, the choice is limited to around 100 lines. Costco's mark-up is 14 per cent – a strict company policy – where other wine retailers can add from 30 per cent to 50 per cent. So bottles can be at least 3 cheaper here. Read the prices carefully; all are listed in large figures without VAT and, below, in small figures, with VAT included.

Deals are available on everything from six-bottle cases to single bottle offers, with brands such as Rosemount (shiraz/cabernet, 3.62 bt) and Montana (sauvignon blanc, 4.89 bt) – as well as Casillero del Diablo, Campo Viejo, Lindauer and Mondavi.

The fine wine section offers most interest. Most white wines are under 15, such as Frescobaldi's Pomino, William Fevre's premier cru chablis or Bouchard's Montagny premier cru.

From France, there are interesting clarets: Pavillon Rouge 2005 (42.28), Ch Lagrange 2005 (31.71), or Ch Croizet Bages 1998 (19.91). However, be alert, as they might be selling good names in poor years. Italy and Spain are less well represented, with just big-name brands such as Banfi, Araldica, Campo Viejo and Faustino.

People come here for champagne. Lanson (a jeroboam of NV, 99.86), Dom Perignon 2000 (68), Krug (82) and Moet 2000 (29.95) are all much cheaper than elsewhere.

n Costco Edinburgh, tel: [phone]; Aberdeen, tel: [phone]; Glasgow, 0141-553 1604. Visit www.costco.co.uk

taste test Cheap and very cheerful

Fizz

KIRKLAND CHAMPAGNE

(15.96, Costco)

Very nutty, biscuity, initially creamy, falls short on depth and length. OK for the price. 13/20

White

WOODBRIDGE CHARDONNAY

(4.31, Costco; 7, Tesco; 7.19, Waitrose)

Stylish Californian; tropical fruit, buttery, vibrant bargain quaffer. 14.5/20

VASSE FELIX CHARDONNAY

(6.99, Costco; 9.99, Majestic; 10.95, independent merchants)

Sleek, rich, citrusy, well-structured, a very good Western Australian example. 15/20

CHABLIS 1ER CRU MONTMAINS 2006 William Fevre

(13.97, Costco; around 20, online retailers)

Delicious minerally tones, plenty of rich, mouthfilling fruit. 15.5/20

Red

KIRKLAND NEW ZEALAND PINOT NOIR 2006

(9.38, Costco)

Light on fruit and weight, good price for this Central Otago pinot. 13/20

ST HENRI 2004

(19.96, Costco; 25, Waitrose)

Pure unadorned shiraz, classic and subtle. 14/20

FAUSTINO 1 GRAN RESERVA 1996

(10.56, Costco; 15.94, www.drinksdirect.co.uk)

Incredible price for mature vanilla-toned Rioja. 14/20

OPUS ONE 2003

(117, Costco; 185, Berry Bros, 0207 396 9600)

A cult hero: lush liquorice toned with beautiful structure and fine length. 15/20

Fortified

VARGELLAS 1998

(17.61, Costco; 24, Majestic)

Taylor's rich intense mouthfilling single quinta vintage port. 16/20

THE BEST DEALS at costco THIS WEEKEND

White CHABLIS 2006 William Fevre

(8.98, Costco; 10.17, The Wine Society)

Crisp, ripe, vibrant standard level chablis from an excellent French producer.

Red MONTANA RESERVE PINOT NOIR 2006

(8.21, Costco; 10.49, Waitrose, Majestic)

Smooth, succulent cherry-fruits; an appealing Kiwi pinot noir.

Champagne VEUVE CLICQUOT NV

(21.99, Costco; 29.99 each for 2 bts, or 39.99 bt, Majestic)

Classic, upfront, modern fruity non-vintage.