London Fashion Week: Nicole Farhi

By ALICE WYLLIE
Published on Monday 20 February 2012 14:17

NICOLE Farhi’s 30th anniversary collection is as understated and elegant as ever

Wearability has always been an important element in Nicole Farhi’s work, and this collection for her 30th anniversary show was no different. The lofty ceilings in the Royal Courts of Justice and a subtle soundtrack lent a hushed air to the proceedings, a sense that while boundaries may not be being broken, this Fashion Week stalwart always delivers. That fashion industry behemoths Anna Wintour and Hamish Bowles sat front row was testament to this. Farhi’s was a collection at once practical and whimsical. Every piece was easily wearable yet far from mundane. Farhi is particularly interested in working with innovative fabrics and cutting-edge technology, so we saw broken chintzed wool, compressed felt and bonded needle-punched wools among other innovations. The result was layers of interesting textures which whispered their presence, but the collection was punctuated by the occasional shout, in the form of angular sequins in dulled metallic tones on dresses or plastic shards scattered across skirts. Silhouettes were simple and modest, letting the texture and embellishment shine, while a muted palette was invigorated with accents of chartreuse and moss. This may have been a milestone of a show for Farhi but she stayed on-message, presenting a grown-up, wearable and flattering collection in subdued tones with rich accents and accomplished detailing. Other designers may grab the headlines with clothes we all love to look at, but Nicole Farhi presents clothes women can actually picture themselves wearing.

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