London Fashion Week: Jonathan Saunders

By ALICE WYLLIE
Published on Monday 20 February 2012 14:50

A BEAUTIFUL show with a sinister edge, Jonathan Saunders is on top of the world

With a spectacular view of the sun setting across the London skyline behind the catwalk at the Jonathan Saunders show on the 19th floor of the Broadgate Tower, there was a sense that we were in for something pretty special, and Saunders didn’t disappoint. The young Glaswegian won Designer of the Year at the 2011 Scottish Fashion Awards, and said in his acceptance speech that he had come close to turning his back on fashion, for reasons he didn’t disclose. The assembled audience at today’s show were no doubt very glad he didn’t as he delivered what was perhaps one of his strongest shows so far. Equestrian imagery kick-started his creative process and the opening looks certainly had a much more conservative, old establishment feel than we’re used to seeing from the hip label. A country club regular this particular Saunders woman may be, but through texture, colour and and pattern, she took on a twisted, unhinged quality. Tailored coats and slim trousers came in clashing textured fabrics reminiscent of ‘magic eye’ patterns, collars were stiff and high, skirts were full and belts were undulating cosine waves, likely to be a high street trend next season. A palette of blood orange and moss (both seen everywhere this season) was punctuated with flashes of lilac and powder blue, and silhouettes were simple and flattering, allowing the clever texture and pattern to sparkle. Checked, pleated skirts featured sheer panels and simple coats had graphic 3D textures. A green ‘fit and flair’ (as Saunders dubbed it) dress was immensely pretty. Models had matt red lips and wore plastic visors, their hair scraped into dressage ponytails. The effect was to give a sinister edge to a beautiful collection, made all the more stunning by the dramatic backdrop of the setting sun. Saunders is particularly adept at balancing creative flair with commercial appeal, and this latest collection, suitably debuted 400 feet up, proves he’s on top of the world.

• Pictures: Getty/PA/AP

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