London Fashion Week: Louise Gray: Signature show with a dash of commercial nous

Published on 18/09/2012 03:27

It could be argued that no designer sums up the spirit of London Fashion Week more than Louise Gray.

London is the younger, rebellious sister of the other three fashion weeks, all of which have a more commercial edge. London is youthful and edgy, taking cues from the street and breaking plenty of rules. Generally speaking, it’s more concerned with breaking boundaries than with commercial prowess.

Fraserburgh-born designer Gray presents collections that have the club kids salivating and fashion editors swooning. She veers towards an eccentric, punky, anarchic aesthetic, which this season she has developed into a more grown-up, ladylike collection that’s lost none of its edge.

Wearing bizarre metallic headpieces by Stephen Jones, her models were futuristic rockabilly punks. All Gray’s signatures were there – clashing prints, crayon-bright colours, scribbled graffiti, consciously-batty hair and make-up – but individual pieces were surprisingly wearable. A simple, A-line dress with striking slashes, a slim, monochrome coat and a girlish printed sun dress were as accessible as they were individual. This was a collection with club kid appeal and a dash of commercial nous that may see a wider audience coveting Gray’s highly-individual designs.