FEAR not, making sense of the season’s top looks is as easy as A, B, C ...
Aspinal is the hot new British heritage brand we’re all desperate to get our mitts on. Already closely connected with Liz Hurley, the leather label has this year hooked up with Saturdays singer Mollie King, naming a sumptuous crocodile satchel after her. Sound familiar? These handbags (and wallets, and key fobs, and briefcases) are going places.
The beard, once the preserve of hippy-dippy types with a fondness for day-old porridge, is now the fashion accessory for street-savvy gents. We’ve had Tom Ford, George Clooney, Patrick Grant, of Savile Row label E Tautz, and model David Gandy all sporting rather fetching facial furniture recently. But the news that Disneyland ‘cast members’ are finally, after 60 years, allowed to wear their whiskers with pride is surely a sign the beard has come of age.
Perhaps it’s a reaction against these difficult times, but rarely have we seen quite so much colour on the catwalks. From sherbet lemon at Louis Vuitton to turquoise at Yves Saint Laurent, burnt orange at Alberta Ferretti and an interesting take on pink and green at Versace (right), this is no season for the shrinking violet (though feel free to wear lots of purple).
Daughters are doing it for themselves, stepping out from behind the shadow of their famous mothers and strutting their stuff on the catwalk. Tali Lennox, Amber Le Bon, Georgia May Jagger, Elettra Rossellini – what’s more, Noel Gallagher’s 11-year-old daughter Anais is
being touted as the next Kate Moss.
Erdem takes inspiration from the English country garden for its spring/summer collection, with watercolour floral prints and dainty, ladylike gloves. Florals are elsewhere at Christopher Kane, Chloé and Mary Katrantzou. Just watch out for the wasps.
Everyone knows fashion girls never run for a bus; none the less, heels must be taking their toll as the shoe du jour is the flat. Last season we had Prada’s brogue brothel creepers, then Balenciaga sent its models down the runway in flats. This season Christopher Kane took things one step further with bejewelled pool shoes while Louise Gray went for flatforms. Common sense at last.
With everyone going gaga for Baz Luhrmann’s adaptation of the F Scott Fitzgerald classic, it’s no surprise we’re seeing Great Gatsby-inspired fashion all over the shop. Unsurprisingly, Ralph Lauren (right) is there, with whimsical 1920s-style frocks and cloche hats, while Marc Jacobs has flapper dresses, Jil Sander and Prabal Gurung have dropped waistlines and Corneliani rolled out the double-breasted blazers and long-line coats for chaps.
Every summer they pop up, like the geraniums in your herbacious border, trusty old faithfuls that can be relied on to make the season’s hit list. This year’s hardy perennials are no different. So look out for the nautical theme at (MiH Jeans and Eugenia Kim, metallics at Gucci, Lanvin and Preen and monochrome at Topshop Unique.
The rise and rise of the internet has brought fashion to the masses like never before. With live streamed runway shows, you no longer need to fight with Anna Wintour for a front-row ticket, while bloggers are a new voice unswayed by the power of the glossy advertising pound. Add to that the style apps that tell you what to wear, when, and how to buy it and you have the whole world of fashion in the palm of your hand.
The Queen’s diamond jubilee has signalled a new wave of national pride, so as well as Geri Halliwell’s ill-advised revival of her Union Jack mini dress for Next, we have red, white and blue bags and purses from Aspinal and a rather jaunty God Save McQueen scarf (above) from Alexander McQueen. All rise.
Willow Smith (left), Suri Cruise, Harper Beckham and precocious blogger Tavi Gevinson – we grown-ups might not like it, but kids are the new fashion powerhouse. So it’s only natural that designers make the move into childrenswear too. Many – such as Burberry, Kenzo and DKNY – have been in the market for years but they are being joined by Versace, which has just opened its first Young Versace store in Milan, Duchess of Cambridge favourite Jenny Packham and Japanese high-street giant Uniqlo.
Jonathan Saunders (right) brings us ladylike chic, his look inspired by a 1950s suburban housewife, with pretty printed day dresses, floaty skirts and neat sweaters in shades of mint, sherbet pink and pure, virgin white.
The most hostly anticipated designer collaboration of the year is Marni for H&M. With a campaign shot by Sofia Coppola, starring Imogen Poots and with a sexy soundtrack by Roxy Music, the collection is due in store on
8 March. We already have our sleeping bag ready for the campout.
The neck is the new erogenous zone. Whether you choose dainty lace collars at Karl at PPQ (above), dramatic embellished bibs at Valentino or chunky, oversized collars at Tom Binns, if you’re going to
make a statement, make it here.
In case you hadn’t noticed, this is Olympics year, so sportswear makes a big impression. Not only do you have the official British kit, designed by our very own Stella McCartney, there are lots of sleek looks at Phillip Lim, Alexander Wang (right), Joseph and Preen. They’re probably not made for sweating in, though.
Peplum. Did we even know what that was a year ago? Basically a short overskirt or ruffle at the waist, it is everywhere this season, from Alexander McQueen and Carven to Mulberry and
Mary Quant’s memoirs have revived a love of all things swinging and Sixties. The short, simple shift dresses from Victoria Victoria Beckham are a case in point, as is a similar shape at Proenza Schouler and Gucci.
2012 marks a return to London for Stella McCartney. Her special, one-off presentation last week was the beginning of a major moment for the designer, which includes a World of Stella exhibition at Selfridges, the launch of a new fragrance and the opening of
a new stand-alone store in London.
Oh we do like to be beside the seaside, as witnessed at Mulberry’s ice-creamtastic runway show (right) at Claridge’s. Not to be outdone, Holly Fulton’s springwear is dripping with seahorses and shells, in delicious shades of turquoise and orange.
Tallulah Harlech. Remember the name – she’s going to be big. Daughter of Lady Amanda Harlech (none other than Karl Lagerfeld’s muse, sweetie), she was taking a bow on the Chanel catwalk at the tender age of 12. Now all grown up, she’s making it big in the acting world (an early performance was at the Edinburgh Festival).
From ethereal watercolour prints to fashion shows in a deep-sea world, everything has gone positively underwater this season. Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel extravaganza in Paris featured a pure white set with huge pieces of coral, rocks and even a celestial harp. Then Florence Welch emerged from a giant clam shell to sing.
French Vogue – so long under the editorship of Carine Roitfeld – now has a new face at the helm. Emmanuelle Alt promises a less buttoned-up reign, if her Wake Me Up Before You Go-Go pastiche to celebrate the new launch is anything to go by. There’s more fun and games in the new Muppets movie, as Miss Piggy plays the plus-size editor of the Paris-based title.
Wedges are everywhere this season – at Mulberry, Jonathan Saunders, Rupert Sanderson, Armani, Bottega Veneta. Basically, if
you buy one
pair of shoes this summer, make sure they have
Exit stage left for Ugg boots. And leggings (especially when worn with a too-short top). And, while we’re at it, can we call time on jeans that hang half-way down a man’s behind, revealing his boxer shorts? Enough already.
Yellow – not the easiest colour to carry off, we’re sure you’ll agree. But the designers just love that zingy, sunshiney shade. From Day-Glo at Michael Kors and fresh lemons at Diane Von Furstenburg to shimmering golds at Oscar de la Renta and a more muted jasmine at Preen (left) and Jil Sander, the entire spectrum is out there. Now you just need to find one that suits you.
Former designer at Tom Ford,
Carolina Herrera and Victoria’s
Secret, Matthew Zink’s seductively retro swimwear has launched at
Net-a-porter – just in time for us booking our summer holidays. Hooray!
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Weather for Edinburgh
Saturday 18 May 2013
Temperature: 8 C to 12 C
Wind Speed: 25 mph
Wind direction: East
Temperature: 9 C to 17 C
Wind Speed: 7 mph
Wind direction: North east