Interview: James Faulkner, milliner

Published on Sunday 18 April 2010 12:41

JAMES Faulkner is not your average milliner. At 27 years old, he is making a name for himself in the world of fashion with unique headgear made from roadkill.

After growing up in Bradford, he studied fine art and history of art at Liverpool University, before moving to Edinburgh, where he stumbled into millinery. "I made the hats last May. It started with one for a friend's wedding, then my flatmate had a dinner party and all the girls there ordered one or two each."

He uses feathers and furs from a range of animals to make his creations, but why the unusual source? "I was just walking along with a friend, now my business partner, and we saw a dead magpie on the road. She jokingly said I should use it and I thought, that's not a bad idea."

Evidently not, as the hat was a big hit at the wedding and led to many requests for other designs. His friends later pooled their money to enrol him in the Hatwalk Summer School, at Edinburgh's Telford College, which offers beginners' classes in millinery.

Soon after that he started a level two course in millinery at the college. Now his collection consists of more than 30 exquisite pieces, to be showcased at the city's Hawke and Hunter bar next month.

The materials that make up his creations are certainly unique, but Faulkner sees the potential in them. "Rather than a dead bird, I saw beautiful feathers," he says. "It's just a way of sourcing your materials elsewhere."

Ethically, he argues that he cannot be questioned as no animals are harmed in the process, which cannot be said for the work of some other designers. He disagrees with farming or hunting animals for their skins.

"I think fur and feathers are beautiful but I wouldn't want animals to suffer. All the materials I use are recycled. A friend called it 'upcycling', taking something that has no use and making it worth more."

And he has moved on from using just magpies. "I've used teal, mallard, starling, woodcock... the furs I use are vintage stoles that were donated by another friend." Nor does he use the whole animal, insisting that he doesn't want his hats to look overly macabre. "I want to make things look pretty, not like a dead animal strapped to your head."

The response to his work, Faulkner says, has been nothing but positive. It started with friends and family and has grown from there.

"I'm currently making hats for a few weddings, one this month, for the mother of the bride. I've even made pieces for burlesque shows and days at the races."

But he admits his fashion foraging days are far from over. "I haven't been out looking for roadkill in a while, as I'm pretty well stocked up. My flatmates have been more than sympathetic, as you have to freeze the animal to kill off any beasties, and I don't want to impose any more. I treat the animals myself, it's kind of a crude form of taxidermy."

The future looks bright, and busy, for Faulkner. "I'm in the process of applying for funding from the Prince's Trust. I need to buy my own freezer," he laughs.

He also has two exhibitions scheduled for June. The first is through Telford College, and the second is an exhibition called Hat Tricks.

The pressures of interest in his works – from Trend Hunter magazine to the Huffington Post – don't seem to have made much of an impact just yet: "All this attention is fun, though I was quite happy just being creative." He admits, however, to looking forward to the fashion show. "I'm incredibly nervous, I just hope I can live up to the hype."

Given the increase in orders and interest, it seems his creations are sure to be more high fashion than high jinx. And what is Faulkner hoping for from it all? "Fingers crossed for Gaga," he jokes.

James Faulkner's fashion show is at Hawke and Hunter, Edinburgh, on 14 May (0131-557 0952, www.hawkeandhunter.co.uk); an exhibition organised by Hatwalk takes place at the Borders Textile Tower House (01450 360688), Heart of Hawick, on 18 June

&#149 This article was first published in The Scotland on Sunday, April 18, 2010