Pringle of Scotland has been suffering from an identity crisis for a number of seasons now.
A series of artistic directors have taken the heritage brand in a series of directions, but there’s been no coherent identity and throwing loads of yarn at a model and seeing what sticks does not a glossy collection make.
Alastair Carr, formerly of Balenciaga, was appointed design director last year but lasted just a couple of (strong) seasons before heading to McQ, and the label has been set adrift once again. In a departure from previous seasons, the SS13 collection was shown as a presentation rather than a runway show, and the lack of fanfare was apparent in the collection. A palette of sorbet shades interspersed with royal blue and zesty yellow was youthful Morningside lady, as were the prim, straight silhouettes. Shirt dresses and Argyle sweaters were infinitely wearable if not particularly inspiring, while an embroidered organza top and a silvery structured skirt smacked of past-season Christopher Kane. Striking beaded knits were the strongest pieces; simple separates weighed down with chunky, sparkly plastic nuggets the size of boiled sweets. Zips and elasticated hems added an unexpected, sporty feel, and they were the standout pieces from a collection that may struggle to stand out.