Peter Henderson interview: Salad days set to continue for Edinburgh institution

Published on Sunday 21 June 2009 21:42

PETER Henderson is admiring the mural that has hung on the wall of his legendary Edinburgh restaurant for almost 40 years.

Although it looks a touch out of place now – slightly gaudy against the neutral walls of the newly-decorated Henderson's – the owner of the eponymous family business will never part with it. For, on closer examination, the painting reveals the sprawling dynasty of family and friends behind the vegetarian New Town institution.

Launched by his parents, Mac and Janet, in the early 1960s, the Henderson family business has grown from a farm shop, to adding a salad bar, a bistro and most recently, an art gallery.

Now, the family hopes to expand the business further, and is seeking opportunities elsewhere in the capital to open a caf or concession restaurant within a department store.

Created by an American customer in the early 1970s, the painting depicts Henderson himself, along with his brothers and sisters, his (then) baby daughter Juliet and a number of local musicians and artists who regularly performed at the venue – including a young and bushily-moustached Robin Harper.

Dancing alongside the Green Party MSP in an artistically altered Princes Street Gardens, is the artist himself – now thought to have returned to the other side of the Atlantic. "He came in not long after we opened and said 'you need some art'," recalls Henderson. "So he painted this mural for us. We paid him in food for the next six months."

The healthy, wholefood menu served at the Henderson Group's restaurants has become an institution for Scotland's vegetarians over the past four decades. Ironically, Henderson is not a veggie.

"I don't eat a lot of meat, but if it is there – if I go out for dinner and someone serves it to me – I eat it," he explains.

Over the past year, Henderson's has undergone a subtle, but definite change. The interior design is more up to date – the restaurant signage is modern and a new website has been launched. But the Henderson's ethos stays the same. It is run by Peter and two of his siblings – Oliver and Catherine – while another brother, Nicholas, bowed out of the restaurant venture last year, and still runs Whighams bar in the West End.

Henderson's took on a substantial bank loan with ethical financial institution Triodos to finance the buy-out of Nicholas's share in the business.

The current building, on Hanover Street, has been fully occupied by the Hendersons since the mid-1970s, but the family has slowly expanded into the space.

The Henderson Group's turnover is around 1.5 million and, while it has not been plain sailing to weather the credit crunch, Henderson hopes to increase that by up to 20 per cent over the coming year.

He says: "Last year, we didn't see much growth in the business, which is why we are doing what we are doing; you have to do what you can in this climate to keep the business going. We feel that the changes we have made have made up for any slowing in business in the credit crunch."

When asked if the next generation of Hendersons will eventually take over the business, Henderson looks confused, as if he has never even considered another option.

"Well, I would expect so," he muses. "I have a lot of nephews and nieces, so I would imagine some of them will be involved."

At 64, Henderson seems to have no imminent intention of retiring, but the question seems to have started him thinking. "I suppose you've got to create some space for the next generation," he muses.

He is, however, this year to step down from his senior sales position at Wine Importers – a company owned by Sir David Murray.

Henderson's daughter, Juliet (now grown up, with two children of her own), is not formally part of the company, but has been the driving force behind the restaurant's recent make-over, modernising the interior and introducing new, more fashionable furniture.

"She likes to help out now and again, but she has her own things on the go," explains Henderson.

He has recently introduced a comments card scheme in an attempt to get to know his customers better.

"Because we are not a table service restaurant, it is hard for us to recognise our customers," he explains. "Some people have been coming here for 40 years and we don't know who they are. If they would like us to, we'd like to identify people now, so we can say hello."

Flicking through the cards customers have filled in, Henderson is delighted to see a high proportion of long-termers. Many have been regularly visiting the restaurant for more than 25 years – some for much longer.

Talking to Henderson, you get the impression that he does not really like to think too much about the business side of his company – and just wants to get on with running a restaurant.

But his business brain suddenly clicks into action as he looks at the cards. "It is nice to see that we have so many regular customers over such a long period of time," he says, his face lighting up.

But he quickly adds: "Of course, we want to appeal to the younger generation, too. That's why we have started to do things the way we have."

He adds: "Someone said we have reinvented ourselves recently, but I think that is too strong. Everyone comes here for a good experience, so we are trying to make it a destination for art as well as the food."

Last summer, some offices at the back of the Henderson's building were converted into the Henderson Gallery, which as well as showing cutting-edge exhibitions, can be rented to hold events.

But Henderson is not keen to exploit his new venture's profitable potential. "We want to run it as a professional gallery, not an art shop," he says. "So while the pictures are for sale, that is not our main focus; it is not something that is necessarily about making money."

The space is also available to be rented out for private events – a potential income stream that Henderson is keen to push further. "We have had one or two companies which have had evening events there," he says. "But it is something we could definitely publicise more."

He is also launching the premises as a Fringe venue this year. Burns expert John Cairney is to host a "Breakfast with Burns" event, celebrating the poet's work, while there will also be musical events and what Henderson describes as "unpredictable interventions" from his graffiti artist in residence, Elph.

But despite the rapid expansion and diversification of his business, Henderson is keen to retain the relaxed ethos at the heart of the family company.

And if he follows his father's motto – "all things in moderation, fresh air, exercise and avoiding too much stress" – he shouldn't go too far wrong.

BACKGROUND

HENDERSON'S was founded in 1962 by Peter Henderson's parents, Janet and Mac.

Initially a shop, stocked with produce from the family farm in East Lothian, the restaurant, later known as the Salad Table, soon followed.

A bakery dedicated to Henderson's brown loaves and rolls opened in Canonmills in 1964, and five years later Henderson's Bistro on Thistle Street opened its doors for the first time.

Janet died in 1973 aged 60, following an illness picked up in the Far East.

But Mac, a Scottish rugby international, lived until he was 101, passing away just three months ago.

Mac, who worked briefly as an accountant and also spent a three-year stint working on a sheep farm in New Zealand, was capped three times for Scotland in 1933, before a ligament injury cut short his sporting career.