I am amazed by the number of people who holiday in Portugal but neither discover the country's wealth of wines, nor seek them out back at home. That's because few holidaymakers venture north or east to Portugal's wine regions. It's a great shame, as Portugal makes some cracking wines – as well as plenty of pretty dodgy ones, admittedly. It's a question of knowing where to look.
An invitation from the Portuguese embassy in Edinburgh to taste 50 of the country's best wines sounded like a good way to start. These stars were chosen by wine critic Jamie Goode, who runs the refreshingly approachable wine site www.wineanorak.co.uk
Goode is a scientist by training, who came to wine via a PhD in plant biology and science writing. He is fanatical about Portugal.
Douro is best known for its port, but with a declining market many port estates are also making table wines based on their excellent native grapes, mainly touriga nacional. Douro is a beautiful region, inland from Oporto, which may soon become a more popular tourist destination.
"Douro table wines had a poor start with some patchy table wines from Symingtons," says Goode, "but now with the likes of Quinta do Noval, who have recently started making excellent table wines, there is no looking back."
It is no surprise that the Douro featured heavily in the tasting, but there were handpicked wines from Dão, Bairrada, Ribatejo and southerly Alentejo – my favourite region. Goode also included up-and-coming areas such as Terras de Sado and Beiras, as well as a delicious red from Afros estate in Vinho Verde and an unusual pink Bastardo from the Durieuse region. The area which impressed me least was Estremadura.
Some of the prices were scary – up to £70 per bottle. "That's because they have a strong domestic market," says Goode. "I admit they need to bring their prices down if they want to succeed here."
It's great news that Portugal has such a vibrant wine culture, but I know cash-strapped punters in the UK will raise eyebrows at some of the prices. As value for money was not a consideration in Goode's Top 50, I have asked him to also give us his three best value deals.
Taste test: From the Douro and beyond
WhiteSOALHEIRO PRIMAS VINHAS COLHEITA 2007
(£18, Lockett Bros, North Berwick, 01620 890799; Luvians, Cupar, 01334 654820)
Apples, pears and floral bouquet; a lovely rich, textured mouthfeel with vibrant acidity. A very attractive Vinho Verde from alvarinho grape, same as Spain's albarino. 16.5/20
RedQUINTA DO VALLADO TOURIGA NACIONAL 2005
(£17.99, Waitrose)
Rich damsons, intense, spicy and luscious soft ripe tannins from Douro in a pleasing modern fruit-forward style. 15.5/20
QUINTA DO NOVAL 2005
(£33, Tanners, 01743 234500; Luvians, St Andrews, 01334 477752)
Smoky, blackcurranty, integrated tannins, lush and elegant. A very, very good effort from this celebrated port producer. 17/20
QUINTA DA ROMANEIRA 2005
(£30.50, Tanners; Luvians)
My top wine of the tasting: herby smoky, liquorice, blackcurrant, lovely depth – gorgeous. 17.5/20
QUINTA DE VEGIA RESERVA 2005
(£8.50, Les Caves de Pyrène, 01483 554750)
Good value, very vibrant, intense fruits and elegant take on touriga nacional/tinta roriz blend. 15/20
MOUCHAO 2002
(£19.95, Berry Bros & Rudd, www.bbr.com)
Very spicy, curranty, lovely integrated mouthfeel, smooth and appealing. 16.5/20
CABRIZ ESCOLHA 2004
(£25, Clark Foyster Wines, www.cfwines.co.uk)
Earthy blackcurrant, liquorice and herb undertones, luscious mouthfeel from the dynamic Dão Sul producer. 15.5/20
Beiras: QUINTA DO RIBEIRINHO PE FRANCO 2005 Luis Pato
(£70, Lockett Bros; Luvians)
Pure liquorice bouquet, very elegant, juicy, subtle, rounded soft tannins. The best wine I have ever tasted from the difficult Baga grape from winemaking hero Luis Pato. Very pricy. 16.5/20THE BEST portuguese DEALS THIS WEEKENDWhite QUINTA DE AZEVEDO 2007
(£5.99, Waitrose; Majestic Wine)
Crisp, refreshing Vinho Verde from loureiro and perdrena grapes.
Red TINTO DA ANFORA 2006
(£6.49, Sainsbury's; Waitrose; Majestic Wine)
Delicious cherry/bramble hints, luscious loganberry fruits and smoky oak from Alentejo.
Red DOURO RESERVE 2006 Quinta de la Rosa
(£9.99, Waitrose)
Rich, damsony and powerfully structured, from a small family port and wine estate.
