How 50 years of tourism has transformed the Maldives

The beach at Baros resort, Maldives. Pic: Baros/PA

One of the first resorts to open in the Indian Ocean paradise, Baros is still leading the way half a century later.

Among the nearly 200 picture-perfect resorts in the Maldives, Baros is the stuff of legend. Having recently celebrated its 50th anniversary, it welcomed its first guests in December 1973 and was just the third hotel to open (after Kurumba and Bandos) as the island nation took the first tentative steps on a journey that would see it become one of the world’s most desirable destinations.

Before then, this chain of 1,192 low-lying tropical islands sprinkled across the Indian Ocean barely registered on the international stage. Most were uninhabited, the rest home to small villages of up to a few hundred people. So cut off the only means of contact was to send a Morse code message to the embassy in Sri Lanka.

Word slowly started to spread of a paradise of epic proportions but the Maldives was not the luxury haven it is today. The first people to appreciate the beauty of Baros were an intrepid bunch of divers who had to jump into the water from Maldivian dhonis (traditional boats) and wade ashore.

Nurse sharks swimming at Baros resort. Pic: Baros/PA.

They stayed in barrack-style huts of palm leaf walls, sand floors and coconut thatched roofs, fresh water arrived in buckets and air conditioning? Forget it.

But these people weren’t the first to spend time on the island; in the late 18th century it was presented by Sultan Hassan Nooraddeen as a gift to the indigenous Giraavaru people who used it to harvest coconuts.

The Robinson Crusoe experience remains at Baros to a degree. Located in the North Male Atoll, an easy 25-minute speedboat journey from the airport and capital Male, the island’s story is one of evolution rather than radical change.

Things progressed in the 1980s in the form of upgraded rooms made from coral stone walls, cemented floors and curtained showers. Overwater villas arrived in 1992 and the rest is history.

The vegetation at Baros resort. Pic: Baros/PA.

The heart of the island is Sails, the breezy bar designed to replicate a traditional Maldivian house with central living area surrounded by verandas. Think tall bar stools, swinging day beds, cosy corners, canvas sails on the ceiling and live music most evenings, the bar itself overlooks a sandy coconut grove filled with dozens of shady palms – a nod to the island’s plantation past.

Upstairs there’s a lounge dedicated to local history and culture, with 400-year-old maps, ancient clothing and native musical instruments among the exhibits. A few steps away is the beach, with sand as soft as silk and the sea lapping ashore with barely a whisper.

Luxury is an ever-evolving concept and some properties have introduced underwater villas and spas the size of villages but despite being unrivalled when it comes to history and heritage, Baros does not rely on its pedigree. Small enough to walk around in less time it takes to drink a glass of champagne, the island is car-free and quiet and takes an old-school approach.

The 75 villas – a mix of overwater and beachfront – are kitted out with private pools and furniture crafted from locally sourced timber. In the spa, Balinese therapists soothe away worries and knotted muscles while French and local chefs serve up dishes at the fine-dining The Lighthouse restaurant, while nurse sharks patrol the waters beneath.

Relaxing on a sandbar at Baros resort. Pic: Baros/PA.

The Maldives is all about the sea and at Baros divers, snorkellers and ‘pier-pointers’ are in for a treat. Curious but harmless black-tip reef sharks are spotted from the shore, as are rays and the resident turtles. Further afield are spinner dolphins, whale sharks and giant manta rays.

Whether at sea or on land, Baros is special for visitors and locals alike. Ibrahim Afzal is the island’s longest-serving employee having joined at the age of 16. Now, 36 years later, he holds the senior position of laundry manager within the housekeeping department.

“Baros was very different back then. Our facilities were much more simple,” he laughs. “I remember one evening a guest turned up at the bar in the middle of the night because his bed had collapsed.”

It’s safe to say there’s no chance of that happening today.